The market of Livorno
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The market of Livorno

Ulvi Liegi, 1924. Oil painting on card, 35 x 49.5 cm

The interior of the central hall at Livorno's Vettovaglie Market, on the Aurelio Saffi docks, is crowded with vendors and buyers. In the foreground, in perspective, a barrow hand-cart can be seen. On the raised ground to the left, some women are laying out their wares; behind them two stalls, with the one on the left displaying a sign saying “Pizzicheria”, which was a shop selling cold meats and cheeses. On the back wall, there are four shops. The sign “C. Mati” can be seen in the centre, also based on photographs and documents from the time. This was Corrado Mati’s butcher's shop, and perhaps on the left there is another butcher's and to the right a “pizzicheria”.     

On 1st March 1894, the city council opened the large, modern Vettovaglie Market (known as the Central Market) on the Scali Aurelio Saffi. It was designed by the city council engineer, Angiolo Badaloni.  It was divided into three halls. The central hall, for the sale of meat, cold meats, cereals and cheeses, had 34 shops along the perimeter walls and 230 stall in the centre.  The Fish sector had 9 shops and 40 stalls. The Temporary Vendors’ Hall, also known as Gabbrigiane, meaning peasants from Gabbro and surrounding area, with fruit, vegetables, eggs and poultry, had 12 shops and 78 stalls.    

The market was immediately equipped with regulations, a director and underwent checks, mainly health ones: “A band of 4 municipal guards and an officer will provide permanent service at the market. […] health supervisors and municipal guards will monitor the exact execution of health regulations […] the municipal veterinary surgeon must visit daily, to check the healthiness of the meats sold in the market».    There were “tripe” stalls and wine stalls. Meat, cheese, fruit, vegetables, dry pulses, coffee and spices were all sold, with soaked fish and fresh fish that the boats in the port unloaded directly into the cellars through the Fosso Reale.    Recently renovated, the Market is now a place used for events and visit, as well as quality shopping.     

[Taken from Work path, by Sara Bruni, in the Fattori Civic Museum in Livorno: works, paths, links. Guide to the educational project by Antonella Gioli, Sillabe s.r.l. Livorno, 2016]